In 1924, when "Parfums Chanel" incorporated, the glass proved too thin to survive shipping and distribution.
The bottle was modified with square, faceted corners, its only significant design change.
Chanel's plan was to destroy customer confidence in the brand, tarnish the image, crippling its marketing and distribution. 5 was no longer the original fragrance created by "Mademoiselle Chanel", it was no longer being compounded according to her standards and what was now being offered to the public was an inferior product, one she could no longer endorse. Gregory Thomas as European emissary for Parfums Chanel.
On , Chanel wrote to the government administrator charged with ruling on the disposition of Jewish financial assets.
Her grounds for proprietary ownership were based on the claim that Parfums Chanel "is still the property of Jews" and had been legally "abandoned" by the owners. the profits that I have received from my creations since the foundation of this business ... [and] you can help to repair in part the prejudices I have suffered in the course of these seventeen years.
The suit asks that the French parent concern [Les Parfums Chanel] be ordered to cease manufacture and sale of all products bearing the name and restore to her the ownership and sole rights over the products, formulas and manufacturing process [on grounds of] "inferior quality".
The Wertheimers were aware of Chanel's collaboration during the Nazi occupation.In a 1924 marketing brochure, Parfums Chanel described the bottle as, "the perfection of the product forbids dressing it in the customary artifices. Mademoiselle is proud to present simple bottles adorned only by...precious teardrops of perfume of incomparable quality, unique in composition, revealing the artistic personality of their creator." Unlike the bottle, which has remained the same since the 1924 redesign, the stopper has gone through numerous modifications. The octagonal stopper, which became a brand signature, was created in 1924, when the bottle shape was changed.